Women’s Trad Festival

As I write this I am filled with mixed emotions because I didn’t stay for the full festival sadly, so as you read this review please keep this in mind – I left in the evening of the first full day to head back home for several reasons – I hadn’t been in my own bed for over two weeks due to NCS residentials, I was utterly exhausted, my other half was aboard (I was missing him terribly) and I had two family members in hospital – so I was a mixed bag and had so wished this was on another weekend but hey ho…

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The Women’s Trad Festival has been around for 4 years now, this year all the tickets sold out within 3 minutes of their availability online! I had been toying with the idea with a friend and was disappointed to find out they’d all gone when they had, so I put my name down on the reserve listing (fun fact: women were still putting their names on the lists the night before the festival began!). This is one popular event!

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sold out in 3 minutes!!

There are four types of tickets – Learners (no experience or very little), Climbers (competent in all aspects of single pitch trad climbing), mother and child and a Rescue Course. Naturally, having no experience on grit, I opted for the Learner ticket; with this ticket, you can borrow equipment and are matched up with an experienced mentor/teacher and another learner of similar experience to you.

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The artwork of Gilly’s is wonderful.

So, I was on the waiting list and one day an email said a space had opened up and I have 48 hours to accept – not being one to think about things for long, I accepted and paid (I thought it was a reasonable amount at around £100. I wanted to learn in a comfortable environment!)

The prior information was good – you fill in the standard health and permission forms etc. and they sent information about the event. The only thing you don’t learn is who your mentor/teacher is and the other person climbing with you – this is given on the day at check-in (they might need to change groups around it). I found out I had the same teacher as I had for my Climbing Wall Instructor training – Ali Taylor, which shows how small a world it can be! I also have a lovely woman with our group, named Catherine – we did make an interesting combo, what I was lacking in physical ability I complimented her technical knowledge – so we both were learning from each other as well as Ali.

Anyway, I’ve skipped ahead. The venue for this event was at Chalk Farm, near the town of Ringinglow in the Peak District – just a short drive from Burbage. The event was easy to find and easy to get to – as I was driving straight from the NCS residential in Bristol I was on the motorways all the way (4+ hours there, only 2 1/2 on the way back!!).

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beautiful view

The layout of the site was simple enough. The organisers had signed posted it well, there was plenty of space and it had great views from the tent! I set my tent up and straight away got chatting to others – many from North Wales or around the Peak District area; some who were coming for the first time, some who had been before – the women were very open and chatty and it didn’t feel judgmental at all. I was nervous, as was the new friend I’d made, as we both thought they’d be a lot of friendship groups already but a lot seem to have turned up on their own!

Check-in was quick and easy, I had a look at the DMM stall at their kit, the items on offer for the raffle, the shoes for hire from Tenaya and information about the Pinnacle Club (several members were there). This isn’t a festival with a lot of stalls, it’s small, it’s intimate, it’s really nice.

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Nice goodies in the goodie bag

Upon check-in, the volunteers find your goodie bag. A tote badge with Gilly’s wonderful design on, a toilet roll from Who Gives a Crap (you’ll need it for the portaloos when the rolls run out!), a Rab kitted logo headband, a DMM non-locking carabiner (with WTF 2019 engraved), ClimbOn mini bar and your event T-shirt*. All useful and well thought of goodie bag items!

*The t-shirts were all hand-printed and ironed – over 300! Red is for learners, yellow for climbers, green for mentors/teachers and blue for volunteers. An excellent system! I hope they don’t change the colours as I’d love a yellow top one year!

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Love this enamel mug

You could also purchase one of their enamel or china mugs with its super super cute design on, drawn by Gilly.

So, the first night was just setting up, checking out the site and relaxing, the next day was all the action!

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(I didn’t go for the 7am run – lol!)

The day started with a lot of anticipation from everyone! I think if the organisers had said “let’s go climbing at 6am” a lot of us would have said “YES!” Many were ready, in their T-shirts, and raring to go – we had a talk from the organisers about how the festival started off with just 60 women and over 300(!!) were attending in 2019; how the festival nearly didn’t happen this year (due to venue change/insurance but BMC supported them) and how they want it to continue and expand – its just becoming so sooo popular and time-consuming for them!

After the initial, find your mentor and climbing buddy, it was time to set off for the grit. We headed to Burbage to try out some routes and learn some new things. For me, I learnt just how grippy grit is! I’m used to the coloured plastic holds of an indoor wall where the thinking isn’t as complex as being outdoors. Ali kept telling me “trust your feet” and “placement is not where you expect” [referencing, tiny tiny holds]- she was encouraging and I did enjoy it whilst doing it – I just wished I could have been in a better mind and physical shape to fully enjoy it. We did a few routes, I learnt a few things and enjoyed the time but knew, when we were due to head back to the campsite, that mentally and physically I needed my bed and to relax in time for the last NCS week of work… (at least this week wasn’t a 7am-10pm daily job!).

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Ali taught us how to properly coil rope and tie it around ourselves to carry it back down.

Would I go again? Absolutely! I would love to go with a friend though to share the experience long after the event but feel comfortable enough to travel up alone.

I highly recommend this event to women interested in trad or just getting outdoors for the first time. It’s not a straight forward “learn trad” as you might expect on a paid course, it is much more than that and the experience from the mentors/teachers shape your experience. Ali knew we wanted the experience over the technical side of things (for now) so made that happen and I’m grateful to have felt listened to and “in control” of the experience.

I’m really pleased I went, as mentioned, it probably would have been better on another week for me at least, but it’s sparked an interest and I hope to attend the event again. I wish all the organisers the best, as it continues to be so popular I hope the BMC and/or other sponsors help them with additional support and, if possible, put on more dates throughout the year to meet with demand (hint, hint!).

You can find out more information about the festival from their website, their facebook page and Instagram. Also, check out the UKC news article about this years event.

– Just Joanne 

Climbing Wall Instructor Training.

I’ve been taking small groups and primary tester sessions on our Academy wall since its build in 2015 and, as I probably will be based in another school with an indoor climbing wall, I felt that my site-specific training needed developing and to gather more knowledge and information. I’ve only known the Academy way of managing groups, so was looking at the Climbing Wall Award (now known as Climbing Wall Instructor) training to enhance my skills and knowledge.

I had a long look at the providers and had certain things in mind for what I wanted – a close location, weekend date and female instructor. By chance, browsing Twitter and #DofE hashtag (yes, I’m that much of a DofE geek), I found Ali Taylor of Monster Climbs; and that she ran the CWI training and assessment at Undercover Rock in Bristol. A quick check of dates on Mountain Training pages and there was a June/July date the suited, was outside of the expedition season, close by and reasonably priced so I booked it up in January time.

Fast forward months on end to an email reminding me I was on the course at the weekend…

I would like to start by saying that everything in the Climbing Wall Instructor handbook should be covered on the course – straight away Ali told our group that she covers 95% of the course. Fab.

I won’t bore you with the journey details but Undercover Rock is only a few minutes off the motorway and easy to get to. When you first follow the Sat Nav it seems to direct you to a residential area with a church nearby – that’s where you’re going! When I used to live in Bristol I found several church buildings up for sale, which I thought was both a shame and a curiosity as to how they can ‘close’ like that (now you can find places for worship for sale online); anyway Undercover Rock climbing walls are in the church and they’ve made good use of the space – a nice bottom belay area, bouldering walls, lead climbing area, circuit area, lockers, and small cafe area upstairs.

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Ali runs her training on a ratio of 1:6, which I think is nicer for the participants – some instructors like to run 1:12 and I have even seen 1:20! I do question those with the larger numbers – will you get individual support? Will there be enough time to cover everything? etc. So my first bit of advice (you’ll get a couple in here) would be to go with an instructor that keeps their group numbers low so there is more time to focus on the correct techniques, being able to ask questions and feeling part of an inclusive group.

Ali described her experience to us and, by gosh, climbing is her air and water. Ali is passionate about climbing, getting it correct and safe (she had many stories of death/injury related climbing accidents), supporting others and she has gone to great lengths with the BMC to ensure the CWI training is more robust and develops stronger leaders. I found her to be honest and open about her opinions; straight away you’ll find out just how knowledgeable she is and how much she’s worked with clients of various abilities and issues – I phoned her prior to the course to discuss a previous injury and concerns and she was very reassuring and encouraging and that’s why I turned up (I had a lot of anxiety beforehand and wasn’t planning too).

Day 1

So, the usual introductions happen whereas everyone described their experiences and future aspirations then we went into discussion about the course content, BMC participation statement, the award itself before moving on to warm up practicals – discussion what parts of the body need warming and how to do them, fun warm-ups (animals!) and warm-ups to improve coordination skills etc.

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Fun warm ups! source: @ali_monster on Twitter

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Back to the ‘classroom’ and a discussion about personal protective equipment. How to check for wear and tear on equipment, ropes and belay devices, what to do with ropes that have taken a fall and what legalities and responsibilities you’ll have to adhere to as an instructor. An interesting topic for discussion, which Ali, knew lots about and had stories to tell about the failings of duty of care from instructors and the consequences.

Then on to a long afternoon of rope work. This isn’t a course to teach the basic rope skills, you should come prepared and knowing how to belay – the instructor is there to correct any bad habits and inform you of the CWI way. For me, I was taught two different ways to belay – the V, to Knee 1,2,3 rhyme and the PBUS (Pull, Break, Under, Slide) through different instructors- guess which one is correct? (Obviously, the one where kids struggle the most with because counting to 3 when changing hands for some is difficult!). I’m glad that was cleared up – having a look on YouTube a novice can easily pick up bad habits from some of the videos on there.

Bell ringing was a new belaying method for me. I had seen it in action before but had no idea who it was all about. It is a method that allows for novices to “belay” using a grigri without using the usual method. Good for parties or large groups having to climb in a short space of time – had I known this before our climbing taster days would have been a lot less stressful!

Simply put, bell ringing allows for the child (or adult) to simply pull the rope down, whilst someone else on the dead rope pulls it through the gri gri. Nothing more to that as the gri gri does the job. Ali corrected how I tie a sling into a harness, explaining about friction and wear and tear- so will be purchasing some more karabiners at some point. If the climber is heavier then using a quickdraw (see pic 2 above) can help support.

We had a discussion on supporting people with disabilities to begin climbing – Ali told us  story of a climber who climbs in his wheel chair. I’ve forgotten the name, I think it could have been Lai Chi-Wai : “confined to a wheelchair since being in a car accident back in 2011. In order to show that his disability won’t hold him back, he climbed a 1,600-foot-tall mountain — in the wheelchair.” Source: Youtube.

We were taught the double rope “M” method (probably not it’s official term). Double tie in and two belayers, one either side – both have to be in sync to belay and lower the climber together. This was interesting to do!

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We looked at lead climbing as the aware requires it, although you won’t teach it. Ali showed us how to reduce swinging on a lead climb with an overhang but using another quickdraw on the rope and someone to feed it and hold when the climber comes off the wall.

The video shows how the system works.

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Observation and learning. Source: @ali_monster on Twitter
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Observation and learning. Source: @ali_monster on Twitter

Day 2

Day was more focused about the core climbing technique and coaching. After the warm up (lead by another trainee) we went down to the bouldering wall to look at games you could play, warm ups, footwork, flagging, pace and movements!

Ali made us wear tiny bells on our climbing shoes and tasked us with not making them jingle when we placed our foot on the holds – this was fun, hard but fun. The idea was to make you consider your pace and feet placement – the majority of your time climbing should be spent on feet work and fluidity of your movements and thinking 3-4 moves ahead.

My partner and I thought even thought up a little ‘rhyme’ to remember it all:

perfect placement, precision, quiet performance, pivot on a point, perfection.

There was a nice challenge of juggling whilst bridging on a corner, moving to another to bridge again and put on a top and zip it up, then on to moving through the hoop and finally signing the laminated paper (I didn’t get that far). It was good fun and I’m going to do similar with my girl’s club this week.

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Bouldering challenge.

On the training you need to visit a second wall – the overall idea of the accreditation is that you’ll be able to walk into any wall and run a session. So we visited University of West England’s Centre for Sport in the afternoon and had a look at this wall.

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After looking at and assessing risk, discussing assumptions, how a wall could be used to progress a climber we moved on to rescuing a frozen climber from the wall.

I knew we was going to cover this, I’ve done it before but only the method I’ve learnt of pulling them off the wall was to climb up, connecting yourself via a karabiner to them and using your weight to take them off; but the new CWI award specifies that the Instructor does not ‘leave the ground’ to do rescues, so Ali showed us how to do this with a gri gri. (I’m glad for the correction of old techniques and poor learning.)

Simply put, the instructor attachs the gri gri to the dead rope (rope that has gone through the belay device), clips in, removes the belayer from the system via removing the belaying device from the rope, then tightens the rope with the gri gri, pulls really hard (as the gri gri locks, it makes this part easier), and continues to pull until the climbing is pulled upwards and off, then they can lower. Simples.

I’ve been fortunate to have only had one frozen climber out of all that I’ve supervised/instructed at the Academy. We were told that if all the steps were correct and the climber has built up confidence in their instruction and belayer, then the likelihood of them freezing is low, so to only have one over two years is good me thinks!

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Attempting to remove the karabiner from the belay- not easy with a load on the end!

After the rescue training we had the question paper – 20 questions, 40 marks ( I think), about terminology, history etc of climbing. I got 29/40 with one questionable mark about Joe Brown’s contribution to climbing…

The one thing that differs from this MT course than the SML is the reflective piece at the end;  I would have liked a moment, at the end, to ‘set a plan’ for the consultation period like we did with the SML, but, having a good 40 minute drive back to Swindon, I did this in the car. For me, I will need to heavily focus on personal climbing – a lot! I just have to find the time (excuses! excuses!)

As you have probably read it is a full on packed weekend, with lots of learn, but in the end it’s worth it. I do feel better informed and more confident, especially in terms of rescues and technique, than before.

I highly recommend Ali as your instructor. Her passion for climbing is very catching. I felt that this CWI training was very good value for money and the learning environment was relaxed, positive and non-judgmental. I can’t wait to put it all into practise on public walls and picked up more experience.

To contact Ali:

Ali Taylor. www.monsterclimbs.com alikat65650@hotmail.com Mob: 07814555378

Just Joanne

 

KLIFBOX review

Last year I found out about Klifbox. What was intriguing to me was the gear that was within their first box – a Petzl GriGri+, Plasfun belaying glasses (I really want to try these out), Petzl carabiner, Petzl belt (I have one of these!) and various other small items. Pretty cool stuff. I thought I’d give it a go when funds allowed (what really convinced me was the 8bPLUS chalk bag in the second box, I now own a ‘Lily’ bag.)

Klifbox describes themselves as a bimonthly subscription box for climbers and that each box comes loaded with premium climbing gear. All for €69 (£63.06 at time of purchase in December). The value of the first box was certainly almost double that amount!

Now I’m a lover of gadgets – most notably belay devices (of which I am building up a nice collection) and novelty chalk bags (I may have a few…) so when I was donated some money I thought I’d get a box… which arrived today!!

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It was shipped from France on the 13th and arrived on the 21st (like, literally a couple of hours ago!) and I would being telling a big old porkie if I said I didn’t check my emails almost a trillion times a day to see when it was shipping!

A box within a box, which I ripped open as quickly as possible (it was like a second Christmas!) IMG_9698.jpg

Each boxed is themed and this one was “CHINA”. The leaflet wishes you an “adventurous Earth Dog Year” and the items were are themed around China (even down to the Goji berries in the snack!). The owners have thought carefully about this theme – the Kilfmag informs you that “Chinese people offer a red packet with money inside for Chinese New Year” (the “hongbao” tradition) and explains each item’s link to China (nicely done!)

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So, the items inside.

When you sign up to Klifbox you provide some basic details about sizes etc and… true to their word, you get the size you wrote down. So my Kailas Airo harness fitted me! Yippee, as a fat bottomed girl it’s hard to find harnesses in my size but I’m pleased with this. It feels thinner and lighter than what I currently use but I can’t wait to try it out.

The retail price = label says 699.00YEN on the back, about $109USD online = around £78. (about £98 online in UK stores)

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So the harness was the ‘big’ product in the box (haha, literally in my case!) but it was the little ones that were most intriguing…

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Having viewed the Myleore website it says that it doesn’t deliver to the UK; so sorry guys, if you like the product you’ll have to travel to France to obtain it if you can’t get it via UK companies… the other items seemed to be available via online stores that ship to the UK.

So, roughly the items come to about £108 converted to GBP. (I’ve not included The Circuit Climbing annual. This is dated 2015 and whilst it’ll be a good read I imagine this was a surplus item that was hanging around a warehouse somewhere…).

Overall opinion.

I do like. I like the idea of the bi-monthly climbing box. The first box, with all those Petzl goodies, pulls you in, and the second was good. This one impressed me with the carefully thought out theme and harness. However, your climbing kit is personal, I have people I can pass items on or pop it in our ‘climbing store’ (we have a wall at the school I work at, the kids love trying different climbing items) but in reality, you’re blindly purchasing goods you may never use and that’s a strong consideration.

Will I buy other boxes? Well, money is always tight with me and £60 is a lot. I probably will buy another box (when I get spare cash) because I like the surprise but there is only so much climbing stuff you can have… If you’re considering purchasing a box, consider the probability of being able to sell on the bigger item(s) if not to your desired taste – can it be sold on? Can you make some cash back? Could you donate it to young climbers just starting out? Raffle it?

I’m going to pop the DVD in now (whilst sitting my harness cause I haven’t taken it off yet – comfy!) and apply some more of the yummiest lip balm I’ve ever tried…

Just Joanne

EXTRA:

On March 7th Klifbox emailed this message which makes for interesting reading in regards to the harness:

You received a KAILAS harness into your Chinese New Year box.

Many of you have been asking more technical specification about this product, so here we are!

We’ve chosen the brand KAILAS specifically because they received an ISPO award for the innovation and lightness of their harnesses. It’s a light & trustful gear sold around 100$ in sports shops all over the world, and we wanted our community to discover and enjoy this great product.

You can see here the technical details of KAILAS harnesses and the CE report tested by the French APAVE institution. The report shows the explanation of the ultra-thin belay loop.

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Note: prices as on 21st Feb 2018